


Past Peak = foods include over-ripe, bruised or dehydrated produce that is no longer visually appealing, yet taste-wise is still quite delectable. It also includes breadstuffs that are drying out, and on their way to stale.
PRODUCE
Fruit
• Over-ripe avocados
• Soft, bruised peaches
• Soft, bruised pears
• Raspberries on
the verge
• Strawberries on
the verge
• Wrinkled tomatoes
Vegetables
• Tired herbs
• Slippery mushrooms
• Tired salad greens
BREADSTUFFS
• Days old bread
• Days old pita
Whipped into a spicy topping, a dollop of Avocado Mousse is a delicious topping on stews, cream soups, grilled fish, even open-face grilled cheese sandwiches. Pour Avocado Mousse into a re-sealable plastic bag with a snipped corner, and squeeze out a spiral. Using the tines of your fork, pull gently at the spiral, creating feathery patterns on the surface of your dish.
Level 2
Avocado Mousse Topping
Serves 8-10
1/2 past peak avocado*
1 cup sour cream**
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 clove garlic, crushed
Hot sauce, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro (optional)
** For a lower-fat recipe, use 1/2 plain, 2% yogurt mixed with 1/2 cup sour cream
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Prepping tip (for removing avocado pit): Cut the avocado in half, from tip to tip. Using a tea spoon, insert under pit and pop it out.
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Prepping Tip: (for garlic): The bitter aftertaste from fresh garlic often comes from the mostly green, inner core, “the germ.” Cut the garlic clove in half lengthwise. Using the tip of a sharp knife, pop out “the germ” that looks like a little green shoot.
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Decorating Tip: Place the mixture into a re-sealable plastic bag, squeezing out excess air as you seal it. With scissors, cut off a tiny piece from one of the bottom corners to make an opening. Squeeze out as much as needed.
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Storage Tip: Avocado mousse can be refrigerated for up to one week in a tightly sealed plastic or glass container.
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Level 2
Impressionable Avocado Vichyssoise
Serves 4
3 tablespoons salted butter
½ cup finely chopped celery,
2 cups finely chopped leeks, white and ½ of green stalk (If no leek, substitute 1 onion and 3 scallions, chopped)
½ cup medium onion, finely chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic (approx. 2-3 cloves)
4 medium cooked past peak potatoes* (if cooked with peel on, then peel and cube)
½ cup dry white wine
6 cups chicken broth
Pulp of 2 large past peak avocados
1/2 cup half & half
Salt and black pepper to taste
Garnish (optional): fresh cilantro, chives or dill, finely chopped
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Shopping
Tip
(for potatoes): There’s great variance in the sugar
content of different potatoes. Small red and fingerlings are sweeter. For
this recipe, we recommend Idaho, Russet or baking potatoes.
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Prepping
Tip: If you're using
a sprouting potato, completely cut away the sprouts and underlying green flesh
before cooking as they can carry the naturally occurring toxin, solanene.
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SOFT, BRUISED PEACHES
A fantastic crisp or cobbler can be made with any bruised or overripe fruit that you find in the fridge or on the counter. If you decide to substitute harder fruits like apples for peaches, cook the crisp for 10-15 minutes longer or until the fruit is soft when pierced with a skewer.
Level 2
(Slightly) Stewed Peach Compote
Serves 4 to 6
1-2 cups of juice, water or both (to cover fruit)
½ cup Triple Sec or Grand Marnier or your favorite liqueur
1-2 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. zest from clementines, tangerines or oranges (the white underside, or pith, removed)
3-4 over-ripe peaches, pitted, and sliced
½ cup dried fruit, such as cranberries, pears, apples, apricots, prunes (optional)
Level 2
Rustic Peach Crisp
Serves 4-6
1 stick butter
½ cup brown sugar
½ cup white sugar
1 cup flour
1 cup dried oatmeal
6 peeled, sliced soft peaches, bruises excised
1 Tbsp. rum or your favorite liqueur
1 cup fresh raspberries, blueberries or strawberries (optional)
2 Tbsp. butter
Garnish: rum raisin ice cream or whipped cream
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Cooking Tip (for peaches): One easy peeling method is to drop whole peaches into a pot of boiling water for approximately 2 minutes. Remove peaches using a soup ladle and lower immediately into a bowl of iced water for about 5 minutes. Remove from water and peel. Skins come away from the pulp practically by themselves. Be sure to catch all the juice by peeling over the bowl!
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Level 2
Impressionable Peach Sorbet-on-a-Stick
Serves 4-6
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup water
8 cups peeled soft peaches, bruises excised and puréed
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Serving Suggestions: If Popsicle® forms are unavailable, use ice cube trays. Insert decorative toothpicks into the center of each ice cube when partially frozen for mini popsicles. Or let harden (about 1-2 hours), then remove cubes and pop into your favorite beverage.
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Use the same mixture to make Italian-style peach granita, no ice cream maker required.
Level 2
Impressionable Peach Granita
Serves 4
3/4 cup sugar
1 cup water
8 cups peeled soft peaches, bruises excised and puréed
½ tsp. vodka, tequila or rum
Garnish: fresh berries
Serving dish: wine glasses
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Serving Suggestion: Scoop into wine glasses. Decorate with fresh berries.
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SOFT, BRUISED PEARS
The following two recipes are a great way to rescue the over-ripe pears on your counter and in your fruit drawer. Peel, cut and purée only the bruise-free pieces in a food processor. Try a tablespoon in your recipe; then see if you need more.
Level 1
Puréed Soft Pears blended into Gorgonzola
and White Wine Vinegar Salad Dressing
Level 1
Sliced Soft Pears blended into Hot Oatmeal or Farina
Level 2
Pinky Pear Sundae with Raspberry Sauce
Serves 4-6
2 10 oz. pkgs. frozen, sweetened raspberries
3 peeled, cored, and finely cubed past peak pears
Vanilla ice cream (1 scoop per serving)
Garnish: mint or oregano sprig, orange slice, or edible flower (optional)
Suggested dinnerware: wide martini or margarita glasses, or any elegant shallow saucers
Raspberry Sauce: See mk restaurant’s Raspberry Sauce
To complete the dessert:
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Cooking Tip: If only unsweetened frozen raspberries are available (typically sold in bags), add 1/3 cup sugar and 1 cup water to sweeten. Stir raspberry mixture over high heat, and continue stirring until sugar is completely dissolved.
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RASPBERRIES ON THE VERGE
Level 2
Raspberry Sauce
from Todd Stein of mk restaurant, Chicago
Todd likes to cook up a couple pints of raspberries-on-the-verge with a few tablespoons of granulated sugar and just enough water to cover. He uses a shallow, uncoated skillet or saucepan. Starting off on high heat until the mixture begins to boil, he lowers the heat to a gentle simmer, continuing to cook for about another 10-15 minutes.
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Cookware Tip: Why non-coated pans? Wine, vinegars and the acids in raspberries are caustic enough to erode coated pans. Not only will the pot have to go in the garbage, but your sauce will become tainted with the metallic coating.
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Todd’s preference is to add a few tablespoons of red wine and sometimes even red wine vinegar for a little extra tartness, depending on the mood he’s in! The mixture should be stirred until the sugar is dissolved. When fully cooled, Todd pours the liquid through cheesecloth placed over a bowl or through a fine strainer. After separating the juice from the berry pulp and seeds, he presses the remaining pulp with the back of a spoon, making sure to catch every delicious drop of juice.
For a thicker, more berry-licious sauce, Todd reduces the sauce a bit more by cooking at a gentle simmer. For a consistency designed for pouring over ice cream, he pulses the berries in a food processor until the texture is just right. For a finishing touch, mint makes a great edible garnish, but don’t limit your imagination. Lavender and even basil make wonderful aromatic garnishes.
STRAWBERRIES ON THE VERGE
You know those so-called strawberries frozen into store-bought strawberry ice cream? Well, you’ll be completely delighted by how fruity, sweet and fresh expendable strawberries taste when mixed into premium vanilla ice cream. They may have lost some of their firmness and won’t stand up to chocolate dipping, but past peak strawberries are bursting with flavor. Try this treatment on for size.
Level 2
Strawberry Ice Cream Mix-In
Starting with premium quality vanilla ice cream, allow it to soften out of the freezer for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, place washed, past peak strawberries into a bowl, toss with a tablespoon or two of sugar, and mash with a fork.
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Prepping Tip: Did you know strawberries are on the “approved” list for sugar- or carbohydrate-restricted diets because of their low-carbohydrate content? If you’re planning on substituting Aspertane® or other artificial sweeteners for sugar anyway, make sure to cut the berries into small pieces for easier mashing. Artificial sweeteners never work as well as sugar does for “juicing” berries – a process which causes them to release their natural juices and soften up.
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By the time you’re through with mashing, the vanilla ice cream should slide out of the container and right into your mixing bowl. All you need to do now is mash the berries into the ice cream with a large metal spoon, return the mixture to its original container and allow it to firm up in the freezer for about 15 minutes. That’s it!
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Prepping Tip: To keep the ice cream from becoming too soft as you mix in all those juicy berries, pre-chill your mixing bowl and metal spoon. Adding ingredients to a bowl that’s been in the freezer for a while keeps the whole thing chillin’. Remember, you want firm ice cream with mixed in berries, not a smoothie.
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Level 1
Berry Brownie Cake Mix
A cupful of past peak strawberries with a tablespoon or two of sugar can be blended with any brownie cake mix. If it’s a chewier texture you crave, reduce the quantity of required liquid (like milk or water) by a third. Basically, read the package directions and follow the bouncing ball.
With the casualty rate of berries being what they are, everyone needs brilliant, last minute saves on pricey purchases. Not only do these delicious treats taste of freshly picked berries, they also remind you just how much berries really belong with chocolate and cream.
WRINKLED TOMATOES
If a wrinkled tomato is healthy on the inside - bright red and firm – there’s not only great flavor there, but plenty of anti-oxidant Lypocen waiting in the pulp. Lypocen helps guard against macular degeneration, heart disease … and men, you’ll appreciate this, prostrate cancer. In fact, doctors say that cooking tomatoes in oil increases concentrations of Lycopen almost three-fold, along with nice percentages of vitamin A, vitamin C, calcium and potassium. Definitely too tasty a pill to squander.
Level 1
Tomato Pesto
from Generoso Bahena of Chilpancingo, Chicago
Generoso prefers mashing soft tomatoes into a pesto. After roasting the tomatoes in a 600 degree oven until almost charcoaled, the skins peel off the fruit easily. He discards the peels and keeping the roasted pulp, Generoso adds ground cloves, salt, marjoram, and thyme to taste. Next, he rolls the pulp mixture into little balls for freezing. When ready for condensed, ready-to-go tomato stock, all he needs to do is remove a few pesto balls from the freezer, re-mash them and add a few cups of chicken stock for an intensely flavored tomato bouillon. His tomato pesto also is a really slick way to jazz up canned beef consommé.
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Cooking Tip: The fastest way to chop up everything together and also gets the various flavors blended is to place all the ingredients in the bowl of a mini-chopper and pulse for a few seconds – something much harder to achieve by hand.
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Level 2
Chewy Tomato Roll Ups
from Michael Lachowitz of Le Francais, Chicago
Michael converts his wrinkly tomatoes into a veggie version of a fruit roll-up. Separating pulp from peels, he places the tomato into a marinade of thyme, garlic, olive oil, and sugar. He covers the container and refrigerating it overnight. The following day, he rubs any excess marinade off the peels and tosses them lightly with salt and olive oil. Arranging them on a cookie sheet, Michael puts them in a cold oven (that is, with the oven “off”) for a day or two. (If using an electric oven, a temperature setting on “warm” works just as well but probably will require less than 24 hours.)
The next day, those wrinkly tomatoes emerge from the oven dehydrated, and intensely flavored. Michael unrolls the peels, brushes them lightly with olive oil and rolls them up again for slicing. He cuts them width-wise to yield tight spirals. “They’re great for dropping into tomato-based sauces or stews,” says Michael. “They give a dish visual interest, but also when you bite into them – it’s wow, what’s this?”
Level 1
Traditional Fresh Tomato Sauce
from Massimo Solotino of Francesca’s, Chicago
Massimo quarters over-ripe tomatoes, blanches them in boiling water for 2-3 minutes and then plops them into ice water until cool enough to peel. Next, he scoops out the bulk of the seeds, coarsely chops up the tomatoes, adding pieces of hand-torn fresh basil and chopped onion to the mixture. Everything is puréed in the food processor until “what you’ve got,” says Massimo, “is beautiful, homemade tomato sauce.” For dramatic effect, Massimo likes to pour or spoon a little pool of tomato sauce right under freshly cooked fish with some capers or cured black olives for garnish.
Another Massimo suggestion: drizzle a little of the sauce over warm goat cheese on a baguette that’s been brushed with olive oil and toasted.
Makes you think twice about retiring past peak tomatoes, doesn’t it?
VEGETABLES
TIRED HERBS
Level 1
Herb-Infused Broth
from William Eudy of Shaw’s Crab House, Chicago
William likes making herb-infused broths for steaming fish. When end of the season garden parsley, tarragon, dill or thyme lose their springiness, flopping over in their garden containers, William steeps the herbs - stems and all - in a sauté pan filled with enough water to cover the fish he plans to cook, plus lemon juice to taste, and a cup of dry white wine. He lets the broth gently bubble and boil, until his kitchen is pure aromatherapy.
Next, William pan steams the fish in this herbal bath until the center flakes apart easily with a fork.
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Pan-steaming: Filling the bottom of the pan with the broth, bring to a boil. Put the lid on, switch off the heat and let the fish continue cooking (depending on the thickness, between 7-10 minutes). Pan-steaming chops your cooking time in half while preserving all the flavor, shape and texture of your fish, as well as many of its vitamin and minerals.
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If all you have energy for is a one-dish, one pot meal, poach fish in lightly boiling herbal water, until it flakes (time depends on thickness). Remove the fish from the heat to avoid that over-cooked, rubbery fish texture that screams “overcooked.” Add freshly cut up baby potatoes and a swirl of heavy cream. When the potatoes are done, return the fish to the pot, just long enough to be sure it’s heated through again. Serve in bowls, topped with garlic croutons or a side of crusty French bread, and you’ve got a quick, simple meal that’s heavenly, rustic but elegant.
SLIPPERY MUSHROOMS
Level 1
Dried Mushrooms
The Overnight Remedy for slippery, past peak button or white mushrooms is to air-dry them on paper towels overnight. In the morning, twist the stems off and peel the caps. Discard the stems. With a single cut, slice the caps in two. Spread out on paper towels for a few days until thoroughly dried. This yields dried, porcini-like mushrooms with an aroma and texture to match. Take a whiff; they smell woodsier than fresh mushrooms because they’re denser without the moisture. These dried morsels can last up to 3 months in an airtight container, and no, they won’t kill anyone. If anything, they do step up production of your white blood cells for an immunity boost.
Level 1
The Thirty Minute Oven Bake is another treatment for slippery mushrooms. As before, peel the caps and place them on a cookie sheet for a sauna treatment in a 350-degree oven for approximately 30 minutes. Check periodically for doneness as all ovens differ.
When thoroughly dried, break mushrooms into pieces. They can be stored in an airtight container for later use.
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Cooking Tips: Stir into risotto when adding your first batch of liquid. Add to stews, roasts and soups. Cut into smaller pieces and mix into the stuffing for roast chicken or turkey.
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TIRED SALAD GREENS
Is your crisper overflowing with lettuce in need of a trimming? Be a hairdresser to your greens. Cut off the wilted or soggy leaves and trim rusty spines before anyone sees what’s bound for the bowl. Tired lettuce – a sad sight, can still be a base for a spicy green sauce with an Asian spin.
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Presentation Tip: For a sophisticated look, pour 3 or 4 tablespoons of this bright green sauce in the center of the plate, placing your entrée on top, such as curried chicken or lemon halibut.
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Level 2
Fatigued Romaine Dragon Sauce
Yields approximately 4 cups
1 15 oz. can coconut milk
1 bunch tired romaine or leaf lettuce (approximately 2 cups)
4 cups tired spinach leaves
2 Tbsp. butter
3 cloves minced garlic
2 Tbsp. minced ginger
1 sliced scallion
Level 2
Fatigued Romaine Lemon-Dill Sauce
Yields approximately 4 cups
1 head tired iceberg lettuce
4 cups tired spinach leaves
4 Tbsp. chopped dill
2 Tbsp. butter
1 clove minced garlic
1 cup chicken broth
2 tsp. lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
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Cooking Tip: Adding the lemon juice helps prevent spinach or lettuce “strings” that can remain even after puréeing.
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Level 2
Mediterranean Style Romaine Sauce
Yields approximately 1 cup
1 head tired romaine, sliced horizontally in 1-2” rounds
1 tbs. olive oil or bacon drippings
1-2 cloves, finely minced garlic
¼ cup crumbled feta or gorgonzola cheese
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
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Serving Tip: Cooked greens make a nice “bed” upon which to lay a poached salmon fillet or sautéed chicken breast.
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BREADSTUFFS
DAYS OLD BREAD
When fresh bread gets too dry or chewy to serve up as a sandwich, there are some great options open to week-old bread.
If it’s of the Italian or French persuasion - that is, crusty on the outside and chewy on the inside, y our bread has great crouton potential, or breadcrumb potential.
Level 1
Garlic-Thyme Croutons
Level 1
Basil Breadcrumbs
Yields approximately 2-3 cups
1 dried out French baguette or loaf Italian bread
1 tsp. finely crumbled dried herbs (such as basil or oregano)
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Shelf Life Tip: Unused bread crumbs can be kept up to a month in a zippered plastic bag or airtight container, or up to 6 months in the freezer.
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DAYS OLD PITA
Level 1
Pita Triangles
Freshness in a pita is over-rated because the way to bring out the true nutty flavor of days-old pita is to get it warm and crusty in the oven. Cut the tortillas into wedges and bake them in the oven at 250 degrees on a cookie sheet until nice and crispy. If your Mexican inventory looks better than your Mediterranean one, try toasting several days old flour tortillas. They also make great scoopers for dip.
© 2004-2007 Expendable Edibles Last updated: January 2007