MUSHROOM STEMS
Level 2
Mushroom Stock for Steaming Fish
from Dominique Tougne of Bistro 110, Chicago
Dominique Tougne of Bistro 110 saves the stems of discarded mushrooms (chanterelles or morals are his favorites but any kind will work) to make mushroom water that can be used for poaching or pan-steaming fish on another night. “Using mushroom water to steam salmon,” says Dominique “infuses the fish with all the essence of those wild mushrooms.” He covers the stems in water, cooking them for about 10 minutes at a gentle boil before straining the liquid through cheesecloth or strong paper towel. Next, he returns the broth to the pot for a little more light boiling. Once reduced to half its original quantity, he stores the broth in the freezer or refrigerator until he’s ready to use it again.
Reducing tip: Boiling a liquid - usually stock, wine or a sauce mixture - rapidly until its volume has been diminished. The moisture steams off, resulting in a thicker consistency which intensifies the flavor.
After Dominique pan-steams salmon in mushroom water, he uses the remaining liquid as the base for a cream sauce. Melting approximately 2 tablespoons of butter in a separate sauté pan, he adds small amounts of mushroom water a little at a time and stirs briskly. With a drizzle of cream (about 1/3 cup), a sprinkling of fine white pepper, and finely chopped parsley or dill, he finishes the sauce and spoons it over the salmon. Ooh-la-la. If there’s no fish in his future, Dominique often reheats the broth, enjoying it straight from a mug - a soothing alternative to coffee or tea on a chilly Chicago day.
Prepping tip (for mushroom caps): Skip the scrubbing. If you pop the stem out, the skin can be peeled right off by starting at the underside where the stem used to be, and pulling the peel outwards back over the cap.
